Sailing Polaris

In this episode, we leave the charming town of Lerwick on Shetland and after an overnight stop in the anchorage of Channer Wick we continue our journey to the enchanting Fair Isle.

This mystical island is situated right between Shetland and the Orkney Islands. A tiny piece of rocky land, blessed with awe-inspiring natural beauty and teeming wildlife, awaits our exploration.

Fair Isle is a paradise for bird watchers and a welcome stop for passing sailing boats on their ways to Shetland or to the Orkney Islands. With only 50 permanent residents, this remote island is home to a close-knit community that cherishes the serenity of this unique corner of the world.

Our adventure begins with a thrilling hike across Fair Isle’s rugged terrain. The island’s natural beauty is a testament to the power of Mother Nature, and every step we take reveals a new wonder. From towering cliffs to lush meadows, we can’t help but be captivated by the breath-taking landscapes that surround us.

One of the highlights of our tour is a visit to the island’s only manufacturer of traditional Fair Isle knitwear. The Fair Isle knitting tradition is famous worldwide for its intricate patterns and exceptional craftsmanship. We get a first-hand look at the creative process behind these timeless garments. A big shout out to Marie at https://fairislewithmarie.com for showing us her beautiful craft!

Kathrin takes a plunge into the crystal-clear waters of Fair Isle’s natural harbour. It’s an experience close to the edge of her comfort zone as she shares the waters with the harbour’s curious resident grey seal.

Fair Isle is not just a sanctuary for wildlife and nature enthusiasts; it’s also a haven for fellow sailors who seek tranquillity and solitude. We connect with like-minded seafarers who appreciate the serenity and untouched beauty of this island. Sharing stories and experiences with these lovely people makes our adventure even more memorable.

As the evening falls over Fair Isle, we reflect on our unforgettable journey. The natural wonders, the warm-hearted people, and the unique experiences have left an indelible mark on our hearts. Fair Isle has shown us that in the midst of the wild, there is a place of quiet beauty, where nature and humanity coexist harmoniously.

We set sail from Whale Firth on the island of Yell, and make a passage through the challenging waters of Yell Sound and Linga Sound. Our destination? The thriving capital of Shetland, Lerwick.

An impending change in weather forces us to seek refuge for a few days, giving us time to explore mainland Shetland,. We embark on a land expedition that takes us to both the northern and southern extremities of Shetland, where we delve deep into the island’s rich tapestry of wildlife and history.

Be prepared to be mesmerized as we witness majestic orcas gracing the seas, playful sea otters frolicking in their natural habitat, and the endearing presence of grey seals. The steep cliffs are alive with the sights and sounds of unique sea birds, and the land beneath us is adorned with rare and exquisite coastal flora including Edmondston’s Chickweed, a flower that grows nowhere else in the world than on a small rocky outcrop on Unst!

We visit the historic site of Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head with its iconic lighthouse. Our journey through time unveils the layers of Shetland’s history, from ancient prehistoric sites to the sagas of Viking exploration, the legacy of medieval settlements, and the more recent chapters in the islands’ story.

These historic footprints have left an indelible mark on Shetland’s development, shaping its distinctive character and cultural heritage.

We set sail from Scalloway and embark on a journey to the tranquil island of Papa Stour on Shetland’s west coast.

As we drop anchor in the picturesque Hamna Voe, Kathrin, takes on an epic hike around the island, only to face a fierce encounter with the enigmatic Bonxies, also known as the Great Skua.

But the adventure doesn’t stop there! We venture further north, uncovering the beauty of the coastline and the hidden gems like the secluded anchorage of Sand Voe, just south of Yell Sound.

We’ll share our insights into why we decided to abandon our original plan to anchor there and set sail for the anchorage in Whale Firth, highly recommended by the pilot book as allegedly safe with excellent holding…

Throughout our journey, we’re blessed with sunny and warm summer days, endless Nordic evenings, and perfect sailing conditions. It’s an opportunity to experience the unspoiled beauty of Shetland and discover three off-the-beaten-track anchorages on the west coast.