64 | Sailing Arctic Norway: A Trash Departure, Stiff Winds And Discovering Our Winter Harbour

Adventure, critical situations, and history await as we sail the stunning Norwegian coastline from Meløyvær to Harstad! This episode starts with a rough departure as swells threaten to lift us onto the low-lying pontoon — perhaps an ominous precursor to the bad weather heading our way.

Navigating the notorious Kvernsundet, we face the very conditions the Norwegian pilot book (Den Norske Los) warns against – if only we’d read it… or understood Norwegian. Despite the challenges, we survive, but our rushed start leaves Polaris with some scars.

Reaching Harstad, we explore the incredible Trondenes peninsula, home to the most northerly medieval stone building, Trondenes Church. Its rich Gothic design and fascinating history, along with the WWII-era Trondenes Fort built by German forces using Soviet POWs, make this a must-see destination.

Our journey continues through the small fishing harbour of Engenes before arriving in Finnsnes, our winter haven. Will this place be what we hoped for? Watch to find out!